008: Signature Suiting
The two dimensional state of fashion, subversion in pursuit of personal style, and where to find great suits.
In spite of subzero temperatures and arctic winds, fashion week has arrived in New York.
While we all clamber hilariously and almost goat-like over mounds of snow compacted by solid ice, from shows to previews, I’m feeling inspired to gently begin writing about style again.
I was with a writer friend the other day and the topic of conversation turned to the current flatness of fashion. How outfits are more and more composed for the two-dimensional parameters of an image, projecting from that small glass rectangular screen in the palm of our hands.
With this, a certain substance and depth is lost because, ultimately, the ideal for dressing today has become less and less about living and an expression of who you are in the multi-dimensional existence of reality. This endangers the very concept of personal style as a reflection of one’s identity.
That is the beauty of subculture style and why a grunge or skater (or similar) phase is a cornerstone in the trajectory of our personal style. As we fumble through our teens and twenties, experimenting with diverging sartorial concepts, we learn that how we dress is an extension of who we are.
One way we might assuage this acute flatness is to grasp tightly to those signature items in our wardrobe. Those personally chosen fail safes we turn to again and again—vintage Levi’s, striped button downs, silk shawls— and then subvert them.
Or that is to say introduce the nuance of distinct material, silhouette, colour, or styling choices that make a certain garment a clear signifier of your personal style.
For me, that signature is suiting.
(If you know me personally, you’re probably laughing at how self-evident this is.)
I love how suits are a perfect convergence of feminist values and visual polish. A well appointed blazer with a column skirt or tailored trousers is an instant feel good for me.
As more of a minimalist, I prefer suits in a neutral palette but seek out a depth and richness through materiality and subversion through silhouettes. A hyper sculpted form or an awkwardly long sleeve, trouser legs that pool at the ankle or a skirt length that qualifies as black tie. It’s in these kind of details that a subtle subverting, away from the standard uniforms of Wall St, might be found.
But when it comes to said suiting, where to begin?
Start with vintage. Every notable piece of tailoring found in current collections was inspired by the exceptional suits of decades past. I personally have saved searches on eBay, Vestiaire, and The RealReal for both Mugler and Prada (womens and mens).
Among the new guard, these are the brands I turn to for modern suiting in exceptional fabrics:
The Row delivers perfect tailoring season after season, though this skirt (almost sold out) is a favourite from the current collection.
Attersee converge immaculate tailoring, fabrics and hues—though current stand outs on their website are this structured blazer and long jacket.
Rohé take note from menswear but execute for a perfect feminine fit, as showcased in this directional but wearable blazer and trouser set.
TWP interprets tailoring with a very Americana sensibility, exemplified in this incredible elongated blazer coat.
Lafayette 148 is known for their exceptional fabrics and, when it comes to tailoring, that truly distinguishes a line. It’s impossible to tell from the images but these trousers, with their permanent crease, are some of the best trousers I have ever worn. I also love the matching jacket, though I love the idea of styling them a bit more undone with a leather jacket instead.
Fforme designs some of the best leather blazers on the market and is really known for their incredible moulded jackets, though I’m eager to try their trousers.
Studio Nicholson launched as menswear before expanding into womens, and this has led to many of their designs having taking on oversized, effortless silhouettes. This blazer which just so happens to be on sale is a favourite.
My final note: if you’re in between sizes or shopping for vintage suiting, take one size up and tailor down. This will give your suit a more bespoke look and feel, and I find is always worth the nominal extra effort.
Always,
Neada
Gorgeous collection of recommendations!